BELT SAFETY SWITCH

Be A Brute!

Moderator: hemingray

DAVE
Is Totally Obsessed
Posts: 836
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:16 pm
Location: Oroville, CA

BELT SAFETY SWITCH

Postby DAVE » Sat Oct 06, 2007 4:01 pm

When the brutes belt gets warn or out of ajustment and starts flexin it will trip a safety switch and put you into the limp home mode. I would like to elimanate the limp home mode. dose anyone know about doing this. I have herd that if you get an aftermarket cdi this will do it, and I would assume you could remove the switch or just wire around it.???

:?: :?: :?:
DAVE

Brute 750 Camo... 26'' MUDLITE XTR'S... Ramsey 3000 w/remote...eXplorist 400... Mair handguards... FlightCare Member

User avatar
zkeys
Is tracking a shipment right now
Posts: 132
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:09 pm
Location: Ludlow Falls Ohio

Postby zkeys » Sun Oct 07, 2007 11:03 am

Dave,

I belive the Brutes, and Prairies for that matter, have an every 100 hour belt light that comes on and flashes. Not sure how to reset that but I think it is in the Clymer Maintenance manuals. I think the Dynatek CDI units bypass this annoying feature. But, as far as I know, the Dynateks are still causing a "miss" in the Brutes/Prairies that has not be resolved yet. Not sure, but I do not think the Moose plug and play modules do overide the belt maintenance light.

There is an actual switch just inside the belt/clutch cover on the right side of your machine. If the switch is tripped by an "abnormal belt" you will have to take off the right belt casing and move the switch back to the "on" position. You will probably just trip it again if you start moving.

Well, I visited Dynojets website as I was typing and it says that the dynatek module does override the belt indicator, but I do not know if that is the 100 hour light (that does not rev-limit the engine) or the belt failure detection switch (that does rev-limit the engine.) So now I am kinda confused myself. I assume it is talking about the belt failure detection switch.

http://www.dynaonline.com/english/atv_fs.htm#kawasaki

There is another module called the copperhead vdi that I have read about on highlifter, but I could not find a website on google for them. (i didn't look very hard) Not sure if it does what you are looking for.

I guess when it comes down to it you could just wire around it if need be.

Hope this helps,

Zack
06 Brute Force 650 SRA Green
Dynatek CDI
26" Mud Lite XL's on ITP Series 4

DAVE
Is Totally Obsessed
Posts: 836
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:16 pm
Location: Oroville, CA

Postby DAVE » Mon Oct 08, 2007 7:58 pm

Thanks for the info Zack..........I don't want to be in the sticks in the limp home mode. I think I am going to change my belt and eliminate the switch. I am not a big fan of these belt drives, I think Honda is on the right track with the trans they have.
DAVE

Brute 750 Camo... 26'' MUDLITE XTR'S... Ramsey 3000 w/remote...eXplorist 400... Mair handguards... FlightCare Member

User avatar
Ken
Site Admin
Posts: 7501
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 4:23 pm
Location: Auburn, CA
Contact:

Postby Ken » Mon Oct 08, 2007 8:26 pm

DAVE wrote:I am not a big fan of these belt drives, I think Honda is on the right track with the trans they have.
Simple is better...that's why nearly every manufacture uses belt drives. Even Honda loves affair guy, Don or whatever from ATV Television didn't give the Honda drive high marks.

If you drive correctly...there's almost no reason to change your belt other than every so often.


Snowmobiles....BELTS. Why? They work and simple to repair.
The last words spoken before a YouTube video is filmed: "Hold my beer, now watch this..."

Regards,
Ken Hower
RTF Director
http://www.rubicontrail.org/

DAVE
Is Totally Obsessed
Posts: 836
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:16 pm
Location: Oroville, CA

Postby DAVE » Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:38 pm

Ken wrote:
DAVE wrote:I am not a big fan of these belt drives, I think Honda is on the right track with the trans they have.
Simple is better...that's why nearly every manufacture uses belt drives. Even Honda loves affair guy, Don or whatever from ATV Television didn't give the Honda drive high marks.

If you drive correctly...there's almost no reason to change your belt other than every so often.


Snowmobiles....BELTS. Why? They work and simple to repair.
I like the idea of having a tranmission, no belts to wear out no belts to slip when they get wet, I think better milage because there is not belt slipage. the polaris belt seems to be better then the kaw.......no puller need to change belt. maybe I worry for nothing... as far as why the manufacutures are using belts I think it may be related to cost. to me it seems that belt system would be cheaper to produce. the atv tv show that I saw with Don..whats his name.... in this show that he spoke of the honda trans he gave it exelent marks. (not sure what honda he was testing)
DAVE

Brute 750 Camo... 26'' MUDLITE XTR'S... Ramsey 3000 w/remote...eXplorist 400... Mair handguards... FlightCare Member

User avatar
zkeys
Is tracking a shipment right now
Posts: 132
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:09 pm
Location: Ludlow Falls Ohio

Postby zkeys » Tue Oct 09, 2007 6:38 am

DAVE wrote:Thanks for the info Zack..........I don't want to be in the sticks in the limp home mode. I think I am going to change my belt and eliminate the switch. I am not a big fan of these belt drives, I think Honda is on the right track with the trans they have.
I am not really a fan of the Kawi system. It has to many noises coming from the right side. I find that the engine brake is crap on the Kawi as well. On my dad's Prairie, my Brute, and my father-in-laws Mule when you are going downhill the engine brake seems to pulsate on and off just like the ABS system on a vehicle (just a little slower.) Sometimes it will just freewheel until you give a little bit of throttle and it catches.

I like the Yamaha system on my Uncles Rhino, it seems to work pretty well. The Polaris system on my friends Sportsman 500 works pretty good as well. No experience with the Suzuki or Honda systems yet.

I think each system has its advantages, it just depends on who you are. I put up with the Kawi because I love the somewhat sporty aspect of the Brute.
06 Brute Force 650 SRA Green
Dynatek CDI
26" Mud Lite XL's on ITP Series 4

User avatar
Ken
Site Admin
Posts: 7501
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 4:23 pm
Location: Auburn, CA
Contact:

Postby Ken » Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:07 pm

DAVE wrote:I like the idea of having a tranmission, no belts to wear out no belts to slip when they get wet,
And more parts to break....

Have you had belt slipping? I've never had belt slipping, except my own stupidity for having it in High on a steep incline..and then realizing it and going into low.

And never a problem wet....but it's usually in low then anyway.
The last words spoken before a YouTube video is filmed: "Hold my beer, now watch this..."

Regards,
Ken Hower
RTF Director
http://www.rubicontrail.org/

DAVE
Is Totally Obsessed
Posts: 836
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:16 pm
Location: Oroville, CA

Postby DAVE » Tue Oct 09, 2007 3:48 pm

Ken wrote:
DAVE wrote:I like the idea of having a tranmission, no belts to wear out no belts to slip when they get wet,
And more parts to break....

Have you had belt slipping? I've never had belt slipping, except my own stupidity for having it in High on a steep incline..and then realizing it and going into low.

And never a problem wet....but it's usually in low then anyway.
I will agree to disagree.........
DAVE

Brute 750 Camo... 26'' MUDLITE XTR'S... Ramsey 3000 w/remote...eXplorist 400... Mair handguards... FlightCare Member

User avatar
BruteForce
Knows UPS driver on a 1st name basis
Posts: 312
Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2007 8:21 pm
Location: South Jordan, Utah

Postby BruteForce » Tue Oct 09, 2007 5:11 pm

Interesting this subject should just come up, as my belt light (Brute 750i) came on a few hours back.

Last night, and before taking it out for a ride today, I pulled the convertor cover, inspected the belt (looked almost like new, considering 3000 miles), removed tree debris (how'd that get in there??), flipped the switch back to ON, pulled the wires (right rear under seat) and reversed the switches); this effectively reset the BELT light.

After putting the CVT cover back on, something must have still been loose, as I had massive back-firing, almost no power, etc.. Took the convertor cover back off, reseated everything and was good to go.

Great riding today!

DAVE
Is Totally Obsessed
Posts: 836
Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2005 4:16 pm
Location: Oroville, CA

Postby DAVE » Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:35 pm

BruteForce wrote:Interesting this subject should just come up, as my belt light (Brute 750i) came on a few hours back.

Last night, and before taking it out for a ride today, I pulled the convertor cover, inspected the belt (looked almost like new, considering 3000 miles), removed tree debris (how'd that get in there??), flipped the switch back to ON, pulled the wires (right rear under seat) and reversed the switches); this effectively reset the BELT light.

After putting the CVT cover back on, something must have still been loose, as I had massive back-firing, almost no power, etc.. Took the convertor cover back off, reseated everything and was good to go.

Great riding today!
Good to know that the belt was lookin good at 3000 miles.

How long to take the cover off and reset and reinstall???
DAVE

Brute 750 Camo... 26'' MUDLITE XTR'S... Ramsey 3000 w/remote...eXplorist 400... Mair handguards... FlightCare Member

User avatar
zkeys
Is tracking a shipment right now
Posts: 132
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:09 pm
Location: Ludlow Falls Ohio

Postby zkeys » Wed Oct 10, 2007 6:30 am

I have found that when re-installing the belt cover it is very easy to flip the belt switch to the "off" position, which would cause the rev limiter to engage. (Probably what happened to bruteforce)

If I remember correctly the belt light that comes on is only telling you to service your belt, and there is a way to reset the light after checking your belt. It slips my mind as to how to do it.

The switch under the belt cover is completely independant of the "check belt light" and serves different purposes.

thanks,
Zack
06 Brute Force 650 SRA Green
Dynatek CDI
26" Mud Lite XL's on ITP Series 4

User avatar
BruteForce
Knows UPS driver on a 1st name basis
Posts: 312
Joined: Fri Sep 28, 2007 8:21 pm
Location: South Jordan, Utah

Postby BruteForce » Mon Oct 15, 2007 7:45 am

DAVE wrote:
BruteForce wrote:Interesting this subject should just come up, as my belt light (Brute 750i) came on a few hours back.

Last night, and before taking it out for a ride today, I pulled the convertor cover, inspected the belt (looked almost like new, considering 3000 miles), removed tree debris (how'd that get in there??), flipped the switch back to ON, pulled the wires (right rear under seat) and reversed the switches); this effectively reset the BELT light.

After putting the CVT cover back on, something must have still been loose, as I had massive back-firing, almost no power, etc.. Took the convertor cover back off, reseated everything and was good to go.

Great riding today!
Good to know that the belt was lookin good at 3000 miles.

How long to take the cover off and reset and reinstall???
10 minutes. Most of that time was trying to pull the electrical connectors apart.


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests